Wednesday, August 26, 2015

Mid Century Modern LA Period Dresser Makeover


Mid Century LA Perirod Modern Dresser wd-10

Hi friends! I'm back again with my sporadic posting. It's busy in these parts and I just don't have the time that I used to, but I'm still slowing chugging away on projects.

Today I have a mid century dresser makeover to share. I picked up a little set that included a credenza size dresser and two nightstands. I have not even started doing a single thing with the nightstands but have some ideas for them. In total I spent $40 for all 3 pieces which is a screaming deal! Here's a little run down of what went in to making over this modern piece.

Mid Century LA Perirod Modern Dresser before wd-2

The first thing that needed to be done was stripping. I knew I wanted to accent some of the details in a walnut color stain. For me I chose the legs/base and the beveled dividers surrounding the drawers. The top was also pretty beat up. The lacquer topcoat was coming off in areas and it was so thick that sanding through it just wasn't going to work. Since I was stripping the top I also stripped the sides as well. The reason being once that lacquer was taken off the wood grain was going to come through, and if it was going to show on the top, I wanted it to be consistent and show on the sides.



I went ahead and stripped everything but the drawers. I have a video tutorial about stripping wood furniture. If you want details on my process check out this post as well. It took 2 rounds of stripping, scraping and washing to get most of the finish off, then once it dried I spend a couple of hours sanding everything out. I had to hand sand the legs and the beveled wood accents surrounding the drawers. My hand were cramping up after that! To fill the dings (especially the larger ones) I used Bondo. This product is great because you mix a hardener cream into it which means it actually hardens well. Most wood fillers do not dry hard enough to be able to fill larger problem areas and do not sand well. This does.

Mid Century LA Perirod Modern Dresser wd-6

For stain I mixed General Finishes gel stain in the colors Java Gel and Antique walnut. I would guess it's about a 50/50 mix of the two. I applied the stain and wiped off the excess before letting it cure for 48 hours. Once it had dried I sealed it will 2 coats of General Finishes high performance topcoat in Satin. After I brushed on the first coat of poly I used a fine grit synthetic steel wool to smooth everything out, then applied the second coat of poly.

Next was painting the frame. I taped off the wood accents I had just stained and sealed (once they had dried) and use my handy dandy little tip to get no bleed through. I rolled on 2 coats of Kilz oil-based stain blocking primer. Once it dried I used high grit sandpaper and sanding sponges to smooth everything out really well. Next I moved the piece (minus the drawers and legs which were removed for the spraying process) into my spray booth and used Benjamin Moore's Advance high gloss paint in white. I've used this paint before on the high gloss credenza with geometric drawers and it turned out really well. I didn't have the best luck with a darker color of the Advance paint, but the white BM Advance sprays well and cures well for me. You can read about my experience and review of Advance here. I only needed to spray on 2 coats of the Advance paint. I waited a few days in between coats, but it only require 16 hours (I know, only! haha).

The drawers were not super pretty as-is and were made of a grain-y oak wood just like the rest of the piece. I chose to paint them in a light, warm gray tone. You can also call the color greige, or taupe. I first had to sand and fill in as many dings and scratches as I could using Bondo glazing putty. The best price I've found is Amazon, but I have also purchased this product from Sherwin Williams. I've been using it for a year now and it works amazing as a wood filler. It sands well and adheres well, the only thing is it is an oil-based product and definitely has an odor. For larger, deeper dings I used this Bondo. The drawers were primed with spray cans of Zinsser cover stain in white. I made sure to cover them well with the primer, then sanded them smooth. The paint color is Sherwin Williams Popular Gray. I used their Pro Classic in Satin and brush on 3 coats. I sanded in between each coat to smooth everything out, then used my HVLP husky spray gun to spray on General Finishes high performance topcoat in Satin to seal the paint.

The last thing I had to do was shine up the hardware. I love the hardware on this dresser but it needed some help. It had scratches and was tarnished and worn to a fake gold-looking color. I first stripped off the old finish with Citristrip. I just put the knobs and pulls in a small container, added some Citristrip and used a brush to make sure every surface was covered. I waited about 20 minutes, rinsed them off and them used Bar Keeper's Friend and a scrubby sponge to shine up the brass. It made such a difference!

hardware mid century dresser la wd-7

hardware mid century dresser la wd-8

And here is the dresser all finished with it's brand new looking hardware.


Mid Century LA Perirod Modern Dresser wd-1

Mid Century LA Perirod Modern Dresser wd-8

Mid Century LA Perirod Modern Dresser wd-4

Mid Century LA Perirod Modern Dresser wd-3

Mid Century LA Perirod Modern Dresser wd-13

Mid Century LA Perirod Modern Dresser wd-9

Mid Century LA Perirod Modern Dresser wd-11

Tuesday, August 4, 2015

Before and After | High Gloss Modern Buffet in Salsa

Willett credenza-buffet before WD-1

Oh man was this baby a headache! Plus it took about 2.5 months of work. Not exactly constant, but at least a couple times a week of prepping, filling, sanding, priming, sanding, spraying, spraying and more spraying. But it's done! And while I'm happy with it, I am ready to move on to some other projects.

I stumbled upon a Willett buffet piece at Goodwill one day and snatched it up right away. I didn't even have to think about it, I just knew it would be a good piece. It is made from solid cherry and is part of Willett's transitional line of furniture. I liked the clean lines and the little hints of mid-century style it has while still being a traditional piece.

Gloss Willett buffet-dresser-credenza in Salsa WD-10

To start with I had to fill what seemed like hundreds of tiny dings and some larger scratches on the top and sides. I filled each one twice and sanded in between fills. I also knew I wanted to change the look and style of the piece by switching out the plain knobs it originally came with so I also filled the original boring holes at the same time. After a good sand everywhere I cleaned off the piece and rolled/brushed on (with a foam poly brush) 2 coats of Zinsser Cover Stain. I used my can that had been tinted a medium grey since I knew a red-orange color would be going on the piece... and that family of colors always require many coats.

Benjamin Moore Advance Waterborne Alkyd Paint Review- pros and cons WD-7

When choosing a color I went with Benjamin Moore "Salsa", which is a red-orange color. I've always been drawn to the color and for the past 3 years I pull the swatch every time I'm in a BM store. I have about 10 swatches of this color around and thought it was finally time to try it out. I used BM Advance in high gloss for the piece and after 2 coats I realized just how coral it actually looked. I was definitely expecting a red-orange. I went with it though, and in the end I had sprayed on 5 coats of paint. I sanded with a high grit sanding sponge or synthetic steel wool in between each coat of paint to smooth everything out. I did get a few drips/sags in the paint once. These occurred around the beveled moldings where the paint would pool up more. Once it happened I was able to spray those areas differently and not have it happen again.

If you want more details on how to use BM Advance paint and some of the pro and cons of it I recently wrote a detailed post giving my own little review about my experience with the paint. And I threw in a bunch of tips I've learned while using this paint. To see the post click here.

Benjamin Moore Advance Waterborne Alkyd Paint Review- pros and cons WD-5


After letting the piece cure for a few weeks I brought it inside and added the new hardware I purchased off of Etsy. I chose brass bamboo pulls for the drawers and chinese style pulls for the doors. I used 2 pulls for each door to make a complete circle, and measuring and drilling holes for those took me hours. There was no room for mistakes with these. I love how the new hardware has totally transformed the piece and it hardly looks the same as it did when I first brought it home!

Willett Salsa buffet-dresser-credenza high gloss modern makeover before and after  from The Weathered Door
Gloss Willett buffet-dresser-credenza in Salsa WD -1

Gloss Willett buffet-dresser-credenza in Salsa WD-11

Gloss Willett buffet-dresser-credenza in Salsa WD-12

Gloss Willett buffet-dresser-credenza in Salsa WD-3

Gloss Willett buffet-dresser-credenza in Salsa WD-13

Gloss Willett buffet-dresser-credenza in Salsa WD-9


 

Thursday, July 30, 2015

Before and After | Stacked Hepplewhite Dresser in Navy

Hi friends! I created this piece and shared it over on Lolly Jane recently and now I'm here to share it with you, too! My computer crashed on me and didn't work for a week and a half right after I finished taking photos, which meant editing photos and posting had to be put on hold. Worth it, though! And I have to say, I really enjoyed not having to spray a high gloss finish on this one ;)

Thomasville Stacked Hepplewhite Dresser in Navy WD-4

This Thomasville dresser came off of my local buy-sell-trade Facebook group for pretty inexpensive. Other than some missing molding, the dresser was sturdy and functional, I just needed to give it a new look.

Thomasville Stacked Hepplewhite Dresser in Navy before WD-1

The dresser came with vintage french provincial hardware which had been added at some point. The hardware that would have come with this piece would have been oval pulls, characteristic of hepplewhite style furniture. I knew I wanted to take off the french pulls and add new knobs to update the piece. Changing out hardware is something I do often, like on this 3 drawer dresser, and it's pretty simple to do while making a huge impact on the style and look of the piece.

Thomasville Stacked Hepplewhite Dresser in Navy before WD-2
 
I went with a classic navy color for this dresser. The paint color isn't your typical dark navy, though. I wanted something more greyed out and not too dark I mixed up a custom color using General Finishes "Coastal Blue" and "Queenstown Gray" mixed with some Sherwin Williams "Rainstorm". After my usual prep of filling old hardware holes, sanding, and cleaning the piece I painted on 3 coats of the navy color. Once the paint dried I used a wet rag and 220 grit sandpaper to distress the molding on the drawers. I kept the distressing to a minimum, but I think it helps accent those details and I love the warm wood peeking through. To protect the paint I used a matte water-based poly. The last step was adding the hardware back on! Hardware can really change the look of a piece, and if you are curious these silver and white print knobs came from World Market. You can find more sources for decorative knobs and pulls here.

Thomasville Stacked Hepplewhite Dresser in Navy WD-3
 

My one little surprise with this piece was the drawer liners on the inside. I love the fun constellation print paper with geometric animals. It's so fun to open up a drawer and have a pretty paper inside. I purchased this paper here, but there are so many fun designs to check on on Spoonflower. Now here's the full reveal!

Thomasville Stacked Hepplewhite Dresser in Navy WD-1

Thomasville Stacked Hepplewhite Dresser in Navy WD-5

Thomasville Stacked Hepplewhite Dresser in Navy WD-6

Thomasville Stacked Hepplewhite Dresser in Navy WD-2
   
Stay connected and see what else I'm working on:


Thursday, July 23, 2015

Painting Furniture with Benjamin Moore Advance Waterborne Alkyd Paint [Review]

Hi friends!
A few months ago I decided to try out a new paint, Benjamin Moore's Advance. For a while now I have been using General Finishes paints and topcoats, but since I began spraying furniture with an HVLP spray gun at the beginning of 2015 it's proven to be incredibly hard to achieve an even finish when spraying on a topcoat. The conclusion I have come to is the air that comes out of the gun causes the topcoat that was just sprayed on in the previous stroke to immediately start drying. Pretty much there wouldn't be enough of a "wet edge" for the topcoat to run together into a smooth, even finish which results in streaks on the long surfaces (like the tops and some sides of pieces). I've tried spraying thicker and thinner coats of the topcoat to try and combat this problem, but I have not found anything that works to prevent it from happening. In the end I would smooth out the finish with steel wool and then apply the last coat of poly/topcoat with a high quality paint brush or foam brush. *As a side note, this problem is more prominent when using high sheens like gloss or satin topcoats.*

Painting Furniture with Benjamin Moore Advance high gloss Waterborne Alkyd Paint Review- pros and cons WD-8

This led me to find something different. I was searching for a paint that came in different sheens that would not require a top coat (and not stay tacky). Enter Benjamin Moore Advance. BM Advance is a Waterborne Alkyd Paint which acts and looks like a traditional oil-based paint in a waterborne formula that easily cleans up with just soap and water. I've read of people rolling, brushing and spraying this paint on and having great results with little texture (brush strokes, roll marks, etc.) I've used this paint 3 times now (I'm currently painting a third piece with it) and have only used the high gloss finish. I'm hoping to try the satin finish or semi-gloss as well, I just need to get more pieces prepped and ready for paint. You can see the modern credenza with geometric drawers I painted with Advance here.

Here's my opinion on this paint, the good things about it, and the things I don't care for. I will say, there's no perfect paint out there. Different paints do different things and act differently. It all depends on the look you are going for and what you need the paint to do for you (like be durable on high traffic surfaces, or just cover an old finish).

broyhill premier credenza with geometric drawers WD-11

Cost
I want to start off with talking a bit about price. I find this paint to be similarly priced to other paints that I use (like General Finishes). BM Advance Waterborne Alkyd Paint will run you about $25 a quart plus tax and $50 a gallon plus tax. Obviously a gallon is more cost effective and it makes sense for me to buy common colors that I will use often (like white) in larger quantities. For colors that I'm trying for the first time or ones that are brighter and not used as often, I just purchase a quart.

Dry and Re-coat Time
One thing to note about this paint is the dry time and re-coat time. It's long, and people freak out about it. If you need a project done fast this may not be the paint to use on that project. The paint takes approximately 4 to 6 hours to dry and 16 hours before re-coating. Temperature and humidity can play a role in those times and can increase the dry and re-coat times. To be safe I wait at least 24 hours between coats and sometimes even wait 2-3 days if I can. I also use my dish heater (you won't want to use a heater that blows air as this will cause any debris in the air to end up in your painted finish) and turn it on about 10 minutes after I finish spraying. My spray booth holds the heat well and I will move it about every 30 minutes or so to another area in the spray booth. Just be sure not to turn the temperature too high and do not put it too close to the piece.

The great thing about the extended open time for Advance is it means that paint has a longer period of time to level which results in a finish with fewer brush, roller or spray marks. The negative to an extended dry time is more time for dust, fuzz and other debris to land in the finish. A clean space that will not be disturbed for a few hours is ideal. For me a fully controlled environment for spraying is not possible, but I do my best to keep my spray booth vacuumed, I lay down a wet or damp drop cloth to catch some of the overspray and other particles in the air, and once I finish spraying I leave the booth with as little disturbance to the plastic sheeting and try not enter again until the paint is dry.

Drips and Runs
Another thing I've struggled with is applying the paint a little too thick on pieces with detail and molding, and then having it drip. This is partly due to the longer dry time, but also my fault for going over an area too many times. Now that it has happened (and I've never had a drip when spraying any paint before using Advance) I changed how I painted doors and drawers with molding. Just be aware if you paint a piece with insets and molding, they can be tricky. If you get a drip with this paint you have to let the area cure for a few days (it needs to be dry and not tacky) and then use a high grit sandpaper (400 or higher) and lightly sand the area to smooth it out. Once you have done that go over it with 000 synthetic steel wool.

Sanding Between Coats
You must dull the surface between coats. I've been painting with the high gloss finish, and it's glossy. If you do not dull the surface by using a high grit sandpaper or synthetic steel wool between coats you will not get good adhesion and the paint can repel the next layer that is applied. Even when working with other paints it is a good idea to smooth out the finish between coats to ensure a durable and smooth final finish. I don't normally do this between every coat with other paints, but it is necessary with Advance.

Benjamin Moore Advance Waterborne Alkyd Paint Review- use synthetic steel wool between coats to smooth out the finish without sanding through the paint WD

I've actually found that even high grit sandpaper, like 400 grit, will leave scratches in the paint (which will show through if you are using high gloss) so I solely stick to using #000 synthetic steel wool. The photo above shows the side of a piece that I had used synthetic steel wool on the dull the finish and smooth it out. In my experience real steel wood sheds and it can be hard and a pain to remove all of the particles from the piece. Plus, if you miss any particles there is a possibility they can rust and come through the freshly painted finish. None of the hardware stores in 30 miles of me carry synthetic steel wool (that I have found) so I order it off of Amazon. The Norton #000 2 pack is my favorite but I also buy and use the Task 'Fine' grit. Do not buy the the 3M brand. I tried it and it did nothing, don't waste your money. The best thing about dulling the surface between coats with synthetic steel wool is it doesn't remove much, if any at all, of the paint. When I used sandpaper and a sanding block it made a mess and would rub the paint off the edges of doors and drawers so I would be back down to the primer. Synthetic steel wool won't do that! I only ever use sandpaper on with the paint if I get a drip. Any fine particles get removed and smoothed out with the synthetic steel wool.

Clean Up
One thing I've loved is that Advance comes in multiple sheens/finishes. Like I mentioned at the beginning of this post I have only used the high gloss finish so far, but the paint is also available in satin and semi-gloss. For a non-oil-based paint the high gloss Advance has a really nice shine. When I spray it on it gets pretty glossy... and I don't have to use an oil-based product which would mean terrible clean up and lots of fumes. It's a great alternative to an oil-based product. Even though this paint acts like an oil-based paint, it is low VOC (no strong chemical smells) and it cleans up with soap and water. Score!

Benjamin Moore Advance Waterborne Alkyd Paint Review- pros and cons WD-5

Cure Time and Durability
One drawback to this paint being a waterborne alkyd is the cure time. The can reads 60 days for the most durable, fully cured finish. That's a long time! I don't know anyone who wants to do a project, like paint a piece of furniture, and then have to wait 2 months for it to cure and regularly using it. While it may take 30 -60 days for the paint to fully cure I have let a piece sit for 2 weeks before putting everything back together and staging (staging = wear around here). I've moved books around on it, set glass vases on the paint, heavy metal lamps, picture frames and other items without any marks, scratches or indentations. I even left items on overnight for 24-36 hours and still had no problems with only 2 weeks of curing. That being said I've had the opposite experience. I paint d a piece that seemed like it cured but dinged and scratched way too easily. This was before the full 60 days of recommended cure time, but that shouldn't happen to dry paint after 1 month. Like I said before, this paint isn't for every project. I also assume (and have had people confirm, like my friends from the CEH) that a lower sheen like satin will cure faster. Semi-gloss and high gloss are more likely to stay tacky longer until they fully cure.

In full disclosure I want to say that I have yet to paint a piece and use it for an extended period of time, so I cannot speak to the long term durability of this paint. I do plan to paint a piece to use and test out and will do an update in a few months on how the finish has held up and if any dents, scratches or anything else occurs.

____________________________________________________________


Painting Furniture with BM Advance paint review - instagram

So there's my little run-down of how this paint works and some of the advantages and drawbacks to a waterborne alkyd paint. If this scared you away or you want a product that does not require as much time I love using General Finishes milk paint, which is actually an acrylic paint, not a true milk paint. Their paint comes in one sheen (it's a low sheen finish) and is best when sealed with their High performance topcoat which comes in Flat, Satin, Semi-Gloss and Gloss. I have been using GF paints and high performance topcoats for a couple of years now and they provide beautiful and durable finishes. If you are wanting that lacquer-like, high gloss finish I recommend giving the BM Advance a try.

If you have more questions about this paint leave a comment or shoot me an email: theweathereddoor[at]gmail.com. Have you tried BM Advance yet? I think we'd all love to hear your tips and experiences with this paint.

Stick around for a new piece coming soon! It's another piece painted in high gloss Advance... and I'll warn you now, it's a pretty bold color :)

-Reeves


Benjamin Moore Advance Waterborne Alkyd Paint Review- pros and cons WD-8

Monday, June 22, 2015

Trestle Table in Persian Blue


antique trestle library table in persian blue WD-2


Sometimes you don't get things right the first time. Like this library table. I painted it a while back in a dark teal-green color and while it wasn't horrible, I think it was just too dark for the piece. I lived with it for a while before deciding it needed to be lightened up a bit.

This time around I went with General Finishes 'Persian Blue' which I have used before on a writing desk and some nightstands. The color feels really beach-y and cottage-like to me with it's blue, green and grey tones all mixed together.

Since I have previously prepped and painted the piece there wasn't much prep work to do. I did lightly sand the finish so hat the paint would stick, but everything was already smooth. I painted on 2 coats of the Persian Blue paint with a brush and let it cure for a few days. To protect the finish I added a matte topcoat. Just a simple little makeover :)

antique trestle library table in persian blue WD-6

antique trestle library table in persian blue WD-3

antique trestle library table in persian blue WD-5


antique trestle library table in persian blue WD-1

Friday, June 19, 2015

Before and After | 3 Drawer Hepplewhite Dresser Makeover


Black 3 drawer milk paint dresser with green and brass knobs WD-11

Are you ready for a new makeover? I know I am! This little 3 drawer Hepplewhite dresser was given to me by my neighbors at the end of last summer. They were moving out of the country and not taking it with them, and I happily obliged.

cream hepplewhite 3 drawer dresser before WD-1

Because it already had a few layers of paint I put it off. Finally a few months ago I began the stripping process. Before I continue I'm just going to say that no, I wasn't just going to paint over the old finish. Even with "no prep" chalk paint or anything else, it needed to be removed in order to get a new smooth finish.


3 drawer Hepplewhite Dresser WD-1

3 drawer Hepplewhite Dresser WD-2

3 drawer Hepplewhite Dresser WD-3

I stripped the piece 3 times to get off the 3 different colors that had been painted on over the years. It was definitely a process which is why this one took so long :) ***I have video tutorial and detailed blog post on stripping painted and stained furniture here.***  Once I repeated that process 3 times and let the piece dry out I sanded everything down with 150 grit sandpaper. This piece is made of mahogany (except the top, which was replaced at some point with plywood) and I knew bleed through would be a problem so I primed it with 2 coats of a Shellac. Once dry I sanded it and cleaned it off with a damp cloth before painting.

3 drawer Hepplewhite Dresser WD-4

Based on the condition and style of the piece I decided to use milk paint. I picked black as since this piece will be used as a nightstand/storage piece in my bedroom. Black it neutral and will work best for my space. I mixed up OFMP in 'Pitch Black' and painted on 2 coats. This color covers really well! I also added the bonding agent so there would be no chipping or resisting on the piece. After the paint dried for 24 hours I sealed it with General Finishes high performance topcoat (HPTC) in flat. Once the HPTC dried I used a high grit sanding sponge to smooth out the finish and then added some of GF's Satin Wax to even out the whole finish even more. I knew I wanted to add new hardware and I had 6 brass and green knobs from Anthropologie which work great on the dresser.

Black 3 drawer milk paint dresser with green and brass knobs WD-9

Black 3 drawer milk paint dresser with green and brass knobs WD-8

Black 3 drawer milk paint dresser with green and brass knobs WD-4

Black 3 drawer milk paint dresser with green and brass knobs WD-3

Black 3 drawer milk paint dresser with green and brass knobs WD-6

Black 3 drawer milk paint dresser with green and brass knobs WD-5

Black 3 drawer milk paint dresser with green and brass knobs WD-1
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